Sunday, 18 September 2016
Leh - PostScript !
The boys had flown the coop, Graham back to Poland by way of Berlin, Pete to New Zealand by way of Delhi and Saiyed to the Congo by way of Paris to signal the end to our Ladakh high altitude adventure !
While Graham had taken most off the TDF awards and Saiyed the most improved Pete and I settled for the impressive geriatric award for persons 60+ proving that you are never too old to get off that couch and challenge yourself !
With a few days to kill i took the opportunity to enjoy some of the beautiful surrounds by trekking for 4 days down the Sahm Valley in terrain that looked almost biblical !
Surprisingly after 3 weeks of high altitude cycling trekking at 3500 metres was still pretty tough suggesting that some muscle groups had not been pulling their weight over the previous 3 week cycling period !
Back in Leh and with some time to reflect on an amazingly tough and beautiful cycle trip I'm greatful for the company of my fellow cycling companions Pete, Graham & Saiyed and the fantastic support offered by our embarrassingly large support team particularly Raj, Nannuck, Sabu and Geyshu !
As for the next adventure who knows there's just too much to choose from !
While Graham had taken most off the TDF awards and Saiyed the most improved Pete and I settled for the impressive geriatric award for persons 60+ proving that you are never too old to get off that couch and challenge yourself !
With a few days to kill i took the opportunity to enjoy some of the beautiful surrounds by trekking for 4 days down the Sahm Valley in terrain that looked almost biblical !
Surprisingly after 3 weeks of high altitude cycling trekking at 3500 metres was still pretty tough suggesting that some muscle groups had not been pulling their weight over the previous 3 week cycling period !
Back in Leh and with some time to reflect on an amazingly tough and beautiful cycle trip I'm greatful for the company of my fellow cycling companions Pete, Graham & Saiyed and the fantastic support offered by our embarrassingly large support team particularly Raj, Nannuck, Sabu and Geyshu !
As for the next adventure who knows there's just too much to choose from !
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| Some of our crew heading back to Manali |
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| Our Ladakh cultural night at our hotel in Leh ! |
Day 19 - Leh 75 kms - 3600 metres ! " Mission Accomplished"!
After nearly 3 weeks on the go we entered the desert capital of Ladakh Leh still punishing ourselves with a 5 km climb towards the city centre followed by another series of small climbs as we worked the back streets to our Hotel ! This was it, over 900 kms through some of toughest cycling conditions in the world - a sense of accomplishment and undoubtedly a sense of relief that it was all over !
We left our comfortable guesthouse at Upshi that morning saying goodbye to 6 of of our support staff (amazingly we had 10 !) before continuing where we left off yesterday with a stunning 20+ km descent through a magic riverr canyon to a police checkpoint on the outskirts of the Leh District
From here two things struck us 1) the incredibly dry and desert like scenery & 2) the amazing number of army bases that we passed
With the sun blazing we lunched near the Thikse Monastery (an almost mirror copy of the Potala in Tibet) some 20 kms from Leh !
Our final leg into Leh was probably the most unpleasant on tour with narrow traffic filled roiads bringing us into close proximity with constantly honking cars and trucks as we battled our way through populated areas on the outskirts of Leh
There was one final surprise when rounding one corner we got the Royal wave from the US Canadian cycling group we'd not seen for a couple of days !
After days of cycling at extreme altitude it was a relief to finally enter Leh and make our way to our welcoming hotel full of promise for a hot shower and a good night's sleep.
For both Pete' & I our cycling trip was overr being well and truly cycled out by the tough conditions but Graham was prepared for one more battle - a courageous 5 hour cycle up the famed Khardung La at close to 5400 metres and one of the highest roads in the world!
With some serious R&R ahead it was bliss to finally be able to relax, take a beer or two and enjoy the environs of Leh - mission successfully accomplished !
We left our comfortable guesthouse at Upshi that morning saying goodbye to 6 of of our support staff (amazingly we had 10 !) before continuing where we left off yesterday with a stunning 20+ km descent through a magic riverr canyon to a police checkpoint on the outskirts of the Leh District
From here two things struck us 1) the incredibly dry and desert like scenery & 2) the amazing number of army bases that we passed
With the sun blazing we lunched near the Thikse Monastery (an almost mirror copy of the Potala in Tibet) some 20 kms from Leh !
Our final leg into Leh was probably the most unpleasant on tour with narrow traffic filled roiads bringing us into close proximity with constantly honking cars and trucks as we battled our way through populated areas on the outskirts of Leh
There was one final surprise when rounding one corner we got the Royal wave from the US Canadian cycling group we'd not seen for a couple of days !
After days of cycling at extreme altitude it was a relief to finally enter Leh and make our way to our welcoming hotel full of promise for a hot shower and a good night's sleep.
For both Pete' & I our cycling trip was overr being well and truly cycled out by the tough conditions but Graham was prepared for one more battle - a courageous 5 hour cycle up the famed Khardung La at close to 5400 metres and one of the highest roads in the world!
With some serious R&R ahead it was bliss to finally be able to relax, take a beer or two and enjoy the environs of Leh - mission successfully accomplished !
Saturday, 17 September 2016
Day 18 - Upshi 75 kms - 3500 metres ! " The Big One " !
Over 18,000 feet high (the equivalent of Everest Base Camp) the Tanglang La, one of the highest motorable Mtn passes in the world, was to become our baptism of fire into high altitude cycling !
We'd left our frigid surrounds at Tsukar heading across dirt tracks on to the main road. We took a final mornings Chai before rounding a corner to view our distant Mtn pass complete with 22 kms of painful climbing ahead !
Unlike my last visit in 2013 nearly the entire 22 kms is now sealed but at these breathless altitudes even that was to provide for only a marginal benefit !
Even the sections that appeared flat (an optical illusion!) had you in bottom gear while attempting to breathe through your ears to combat the altitude and gain every possible oxygen molecule available !
After nearly 3 hours and 3 huge side loops we were all safely at the top, Graham having already consumed a 5 course lunch and Pete not far behind me getting a standing ovation (from those that could) as he bravely crossed the line gasping !
Our new companion Sayied's (friend of the cyclist who had to return to Manali earlier because of AS issues) effort in particular was amazing. A part time cyclist and boxing coach (a protégée of his was competing in Rio) with limited pre trip training also completed the huge ascent
After taking celebratory pictures resembling a group orgy on top posed beside the Tanglang La sign we headed 5 kms down the other side of the Pass for lunch spread out in the sun reflecting on our achievement.
The downhill following was one of the most amazing rides you'll find anywhere in the world - 20+ kms on sealed roads with switchback after switchback unfolding directly underneath you - this was as stunning as it gets !
Riding on to Numpste we took an afternoon break catching cyclists doing the reverse route with panniers (nutcases) before taking yet another downhill segment through a land progressively greener and marked with many ancient Tibetan style Gompas !
Finally arriving at our camp site after a hard days graft we opted for the comfort option choosing a nearby guesthouse over camping !
Tonight we celebrate in style, the diesel drums are back and the dining table is stacked with beer !!!
We'd left our frigid surrounds at Tsukar heading across dirt tracks on to the main road. We took a final mornings Chai before rounding a corner to view our distant Mtn pass complete with 22 kms of painful climbing ahead !
Unlike my last visit in 2013 nearly the entire 22 kms is now sealed but at these breathless altitudes even that was to provide for only a marginal benefit !
Even the sections that appeared flat (an optical illusion!) had you in bottom gear while attempting to breathe through your ears to combat the altitude and gain every possible oxygen molecule available !
After nearly 3 hours and 3 huge side loops we were all safely at the top, Graham having already consumed a 5 course lunch and Pete not far behind me getting a standing ovation (from those that could) as he bravely crossed the line gasping !
Our new companion Sayied's (friend of the cyclist who had to return to Manali earlier because of AS issues) effort in particular was amazing. A part time cyclist and boxing coach (a protégée of his was competing in Rio) with limited pre trip training also completed the huge ascent
After taking celebratory pictures resembling a group orgy on top posed beside the Tanglang La sign we headed 5 kms down the other side of the Pass for lunch spread out in the sun reflecting on our achievement.
The downhill following was one of the most amazing rides you'll find anywhere in the world - 20+ kms on sealed roads with switchback after switchback unfolding directly underneath you - this was as stunning as it gets !
Riding on to Numpste we took an afternoon break catching cyclists doing the reverse route with panniers (nutcases) before taking yet another downhill segment through a land progressively greener and marked with many ancient Tibetan style Gompas !
Finally arriving at our camp site after a hard days graft we opted for the comfort option choosing a nearby guesthouse over camping !
Tonight we celebrate in style, the diesel drums are back and the dining table is stacked with beer !!!
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| Pete Knackered ! |
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| Pete Elated ! |
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| 5328 Metres High ! |
Day 17 - Tsukar 75 kms - 4,700 metres ! " A Fair Wind "!
This must be a dream , rocketing along on a flat well paved bitumen roiad at 30+ kms/he after 2 weeks of gruelling climbs and road conditions - all I needed now was for the mountains to start looking like ice cream cones and to see Kate Perry hitching a lift to really know that AS had claimed yet another victim !
We'd started with the sun finally climbing over the surrounding mountains to warm us on our 7km switchback climb out of Whiskey Nullah to the Lachung La pass at 5100 metres. The 25km descent that followed was a mountain bikers dream if you excluded, rocks, dust, vehicular traffic and other various hidden hazards !
The scenery travelling down the narrow valley was subliime at one stage opening up into a 180 degree view of the road cut away into the mountain side.Travelling down to Pang we rested in the heat with another 7 km switchback climb staring us straight in the face. While Pete and I took advantage of a warm coke we watched as Graham worked his way up the switchbacks disappearing into the distance
Eventually both Pete and I got off our butts for our 2nd climb of the day rewarded by expansive views on the way up and an open view of the well know Morey Plains when we reached the top
With lunch restoring some energy we took off on the final 30+ kms to camp matching speed with some of the larger trucks as a result of a fabulous tail wind behind us
Enjoying the opportunity to let go of the leash I took off in the beautiful solitude of this magic open area being punished though when I finally came across our support vehicle who informed me (I thought) that I'd overshoot the camp's turn off 2 kms back.
Turing around into the wind I laboriously cycled back to be met by Pete and our guide Sabu coming the other way ! Sabu was adamant that we hadn't yet reached the turnoff so turning around once again I cycled back in my original direction to see your support vehicle!e waiting 7 kms ahead at the correct turn off
When I asked why they'd instructed me to turn around Raj & Nanuck sheepishly replied that they thought I'd asked how far back Pete was thinking that I'd like to ride with him !!
A few kms of tough sandy off road riding took us to our isolated camp site a km or two short of the Tsukar salt lake and wetlands area which a couple of us were fortunate to explore thanks to our support vehicle later that afternoon
With the sun starting to go down the wind picked up with some ferocity ! Tomorrow brings one of our biggest challenges on tour so far the 5300 metre Tanglang La. - a monster in any language !
We'd started with the sun finally climbing over the surrounding mountains to warm us on our 7km switchback climb out of Whiskey Nullah to the Lachung La pass at 5100 metres. The 25km descent that followed was a mountain bikers dream if you excluded, rocks, dust, vehicular traffic and other various hidden hazards !
The scenery travelling down the narrow valley was subliime at one stage opening up into a 180 degree view of the road cut away into the mountain side.Travelling down to Pang we rested in the heat with another 7 km switchback climb staring us straight in the face. While Pete and I took advantage of a warm coke we watched as Graham worked his way up the switchbacks disappearing into the distance
Eventually both Pete and I got off our butts for our 2nd climb of the day rewarded by expansive views on the way up and an open view of the well know Morey Plains when we reached the top
With lunch restoring some energy we took off on the final 30+ kms to camp matching speed with some of the larger trucks as a result of a fabulous tail wind behind us
Enjoying the opportunity to let go of the leash I took off in the beautiful solitude of this magic open area being punished though when I finally came across our support vehicle who informed me (I thought) that I'd overshoot the camp's turn off 2 kms back.
Turing around into the wind I laboriously cycled back to be met by Pete and our guide Sabu coming the other way ! Sabu was adamant that we hadn't yet reached the turnoff so turning around once again I cycled back in my original direction to see your support vehicle!e waiting 7 kms ahead at the correct turn off
When I asked why they'd instructed me to turn around Raj & Nanuck sheepishly replied that they thought I'd asked how far back Pete was thinking that I'd like to ride with him !!
A few kms of tough sandy off road riding took us to our isolated camp site a km or two short of the Tsukar salt lake and wetlands area which a couple of us were fortunate to explore thanks to our support vehicle later that afternoon
With the sun starting to go down the wind picked up with some ferocity ! Tomorrow brings one of our biggest challenges on tour so far the 5300 metre Tanglang La. - a monster in any language !
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| On the way to Pang ! |
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| Up on the Moray Plains ! |
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| Wetlands near camp |
Some Indian Observations
- Wasn't half as surprised when boarding my plane at Delhi seeing pilots had placed newspaper over 3/4 of the cockpit window (presumably to shield the sun) as i was when getting off the plane in Chandigarh to see the newspapers still in place !
- A little amazed to see the incredible number of army bases on our cycle particularly en route to Kashmir !
- Pretty stunned to hear about artillery shells being portered by locals to high altitude Indian bases on the Pakistan / China borders !
- A bit bemused coming across Indian road workers in action laying fresh bitumen or repairing sections of bridges without warning often resulting in long delays to road traffic !
- Pretty frustrated by the continued non operation of phones or the net en route - phones because of security rigmarole that foreigners are required to go thru and the net for any of a thousand excuses !
- Pretty pleased by my $5 Barber shop experience - included a haircut, a shave, a head & shoulders massage as well as pampering with moisturiser and after shave !
- Pretty peeved at the speed at which Indian drivers drive down narrow Lane ways (like lunatics) after driving so sedately on road !
- Mildly amused by the fascination by all Indians to all things Bollywood on TV !
- A bit non plussed seeing one of our support vehicles with a stencil of the Ayatollah carrying an AK 47 (I did ask why and didn't get a sensible answer !)
Friday, 16 September 2016
Day 16 - Whiskey Nullah 53 kms - 4800 metres ! "All Looped Out"!
After a day of doing just north of absolutely nothing it somehow felt perversely good to jump back on the bikes knowing full well that another tortuous day was in store !
The morning's 20+ km section though was just short of brilliant ! A downhill gradient on bitumen following a stunning river valley comprising an army of eroded sand sentinels was sheer joy right up until the moment we had to endure the diesel fumes of a convoy of 50 Indian buses commandeered by the Indian Army travelling in the opposite direction on the same narrow road.
3 kms on and we were at the foothill of the famed Gata Loops. 21 switchback loops towering directly about us seemingly taking traffic straight up into the cloudless sky !
The one positive aspect though was that the significant number of loops indicated a not too high gradient allowing some cycling respite on the never ending circuit !
Following Pete we battled our way upwards with the view expanding exponentially on each loop. By loop 16 (yes I was counting !) we hit a not too uncommon traffic snarl with road workers laying a new section of fresh bitumen. Sneaking through with our bikes our traffic respite was only short lived when workers cleared the backlog forcing us to take a 30 min break by the side of a narrow unmade road section to allow the traffic through !
After breathing in a large volume of dust and fumes the traffic eventually cleared allowing us to complete the loops and continue a further km or two to our lunch stop complete with its amazing views.
The last 12 kms to camp included a really tough 7 km climb to the 5,000 metre peak at Nakeela before a rough 5km descent to Whiskey Nullah complete with its 2 parachute tent shops and absolutely nothing else !
With our high camping altitude the night was an early one with temperatures expected to drop below zero !
The morning's 20+ km section though was just short of brilliant ! A downhill gradient on bitumen following a stunning river valley comprising an army of eroded sand sentinels was sheer joy right up until the moment we had to endure the diesel fumes of a convoy of 50 Indian buses commandeered by the Indian Army travelling in the opposite direction on the same narrow road.
3 kms on and we were at the foothill of the famed Gata Loops. 21 switchback loops towering directly about us seemingly taking traffic straight up into the cloudless sky !
The one positive aspect though was that the significant number of loops indicated a not too high gradient allowing some cycling respite on the never ending circuit !
Following Pete we battled our way upwards with the view expanding exponentially on each loop. By loop 16 (yes I was counting !) we hit a not too uncommon traffic snarl with road workers laying a new section of fresh bitumen. Sneaking through with our bikes our traffic respite was only short lived when workers cleared the backlog forcing us to take a 30 min break by the side of a narrow unmade road section to allow the traffic through !
After breathing in a large volume of dust and fumes the traffic eventually cleared allowing us to complete the loops and continue a further km or two to our lunch stop complete with its amazing views.
The last 12 kms to camp included a really tough 7 km climb to the 5,000 metre peak at Nakeela before a rough 5km descent to Whiskey Nullah complete with its 2 parachute tent shops and absolutely nothing else !
With our high camping altitude the night was an early one with temperatures expected to drop below zero !
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| The Gata Loops done and dusted ! |
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| Whiskey Nullah - Nothing ! |
Thursday, 15 September 2016
Day 15 - Near Sarchu 4300 metres ! ' Resting" !
Regardless it was good to have a lie in and indulge in our beautiful surrounds, stark and mountainous terrain with a nearby mini canyon carved by thousands of years of history
As implied the day took in little activity with the boys doing a 2km recon of our camp and nearby canyon before returning for either rest or in Pete's case some hillside meditation !
Strangely both Pete and I had strugglwed overnight with shortness of breath a sure fire altitude symptom that can bring on anxiety attacks as something you take for granted becomes a labored activity !
What was worse though was a member of the 2 man Indian / French group that had joined us since Sissu had come down with classic AS symptoms, disorientation, breathing difficulties etc and after being examined by a nearby Indian army doctor was being evacuated by our team support vehicle back to a lower altitude at Keylong !
Given we were only at 4300 metres I could only suspect that the effort to cross the Baralarcha at 4850 metres had triggered our relevant issues
As for the rest of the day it was do nothing take in the surrounds and enjoy the sun bathed landscape !
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| The boys go exploring on their rest day ! |
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| Graham doing a fine Angus Young impression from AC / DC ! |
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| Pete trying to get a lift back to camp - "It's a rest day" he said"! |
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| One of the oddly stencilled support vehicles - the Ayatollah and an AK 47 .. what the ..? |
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